New Mexico: The Land (and Sky) of Enchantment
There is an inexplicable sense of magic in the air as soon as you enter New Mexico. This sacred land is a Southwestern gem, a place where the natural world, culture, and spirit are entwined. I wanted to find out what made this place so magical in the first place, so Caleb and I straddled a couple of Honda CRF450Ls, donned with Mosko Moto luggage, and set off into the high desert.
Our first goal was to get out of Albuquerque, so we headed south along SR 337. In the blink of an eye, we were in the rolling hills of the Manzano Mountains. Ponderosa pines towered alongside the road, and I started to feel the enchantment of this place for the very first time. We were in roadrunner territory (the bird, that is) and it was along this stretch of highway we began to spot the little birds scurrying along the side of the road. If you weren’t paying attention, you wouldn’t even notice them.
As we carved our way to the southern point of the mountains, the road began to flatten, and we re-entered the Rio Grande Valley. Rolling around one of the last true curves on this stretch of highway, we saw something dash across the road. It was Wile E. Coyote, although he wasn’t carrying an Acme anvil or dynamite. It did appear, however, that he was chasing a roadrunner. This hit a little too close to home, so we twisted the throttles quicker and got the heck out of dodge before we wound up in one of the coyote’s booby traps.
Motorcycles & Gear
2023 Honda CRF450L
Helmet: Klim Krios Pro
Jackets & Pants: Klim Marrakesh
Boots: Gaerne Balanced Oiled
Gloves: Klim Marrakesh
Luggage: Mosko Moto Reckless 80
Comm System: Cardo Packtalk Edge
Camera: Nikon Z6II, 24-70 F2.8
Roadrunners are a species revered for their courage, strength, speed, and endurance. We put our own RoadRUNNER genes to the test as we crossed the remaining 200 miles of flat desert highway on what is basically considered a dirt bike.
The Truth and The Consequences
As the sun began to set, we turned onto an unnamed gravel road that looked more like a dried river bed full of large boulders and lots of gravel and sand. It was the first time our knobby tires had touched dirt on this trip, and we were eager to get off the pavement. With the sand under my tires, I suddenly felt like a baby deer learning to walk for the very first time. Jagged rocks deflected my front wheel violently to the left and right, and the deep dust made it difficult to correct my trajectory before hitting the next rock in my path. I was holding on as if the bike was an angry, bucking bronco.
In my opinion, this type of terrain is some of the hardest to ride through confidently. You want to hold speed to skirt across the top of the loose silt, but too much speed could send your front wheel into a boulder (and you over the handlebar). It’s an unpredictable surface, and requires concentration on any bike, big or small. As we traversed the riverbed, we went silent on the comms and focused on not crashing on the very first day of the ride. The CRFs felt unsteady, and the front wheel kept washing out more than normal.
The riverbed route took us to Elephant Butte Reservoir, which seemed like an oasis in the desert. We stopped to catch our breath and admire the waters. We also determined our suspension settings must be incorrect, because we shouldn’t be this worn out after only a few miles.
I was thankful to get on pavement again, and we followed the last few miles of road into Truth or Consequences. Once we found our hotel, we searched online for the recommended stock suspension settings we could then adjust according to the terrain. Luckily, Honda has great documentation available for this bike, so we went to town on the adjustment clickers and found the sweet spot. Surely, this would make a big difference.
After the sunset, we walked down to Riverbend Hot Springs. We’d reserved a private pool overlooking the Rio Grande. A hot soak after a full day on a motorcycle is my guilty pleasure and something I look for when planning tours. This spot was incredibly relaxing, and a great end to a long day.
The Middle of Nowhere
Leaving town, we quickly came to our first sandy gravel road of the day. It was time to see if our suspension adjustments did the trick. As our tires hit the dirt, we could tell an immediate difference. The bike had transformed into a sure-footed mountain goat. It just goes to show how important proper suspension setup is on a motorcycle.
“Good, I hadn’t forgotten how to ride! I was worried about myself, but today I feel much better,” I transmitted to Caleb. He echoed my sentiment, and we took off across the valley toward Gila National Forest. We kicked it up, feeling more confident in both our abilities and the machines. The next couple of days would feature dirt-focused routes through some of the most beautiful mountains we’ve ridden.
We arrived in Winston and stopped at the general store for supplies, the last opportunity to do so. The next 120 miles led into the middle of nowhere. Unsure of our potential fuel range, we emptied a few Gatorade bottles and filled them with fuel.
Winston General Store has a minimum spend for credit cards, and since I didn’t have any cash on me, I looked for some kind of trinket to raise our total over the threshold. That’s when I spotted a stack of hand-woven Chimayo-style wool place mats. Most people would use them to decorate a dining table, but I thought they would make for perfect seat pads on the Hondas. They worked beautifully to widen the surface area of our seats, with Mosko Moto straps holding them in place. Plus, now the bikes looked the part for our New Mexico adventure.
We began our journey into Chloride Canyon, fully prepared for a long day of trail riding. We crossed through the gate and the gravel road instantly became a two-track trail. Then we lost the “road” altogether—Chloride Creek Rd more closely resembles a creek bed. I lost count of how many times we crossed the creek, dodging boulders and ruts that would easily eat the front end of a motorcycle.
It was slow going as we picked our lines through the rock maze. We followed the GPS track closely, only making a few wrong turns and a bit of backtracking. As the sun traveled westward across the sky, we made forward progress along the trail. It was hot for October, but it was a dry heat (that’s what they say, anyway). We were glad to be riding in the swing season rather than the summer, yet still carefully rationed our water throughout the day.
Our fuel lights illuminated around the same time the sun sank below the horizon. It was getting dark quick and we were running out of fuel some 40 miles from our destination. Luckily, we had started to drop in elevation, so we shut the engines off and let the bikes coast for a while before stopping to refill with our emergency supply.
It was well after dark by the time we made it into Reserve, on reserve. Everything was closed except for the Black Gold Emporium. With 15 minutes to spare, we stocked up on fuel, water, and jerky before making our way to the Hidden Springs Inn, seven miles away. This remote town is so far from light pollution that there is a certified dark sky sanctuary just up the road. The stars were brilliantly bright and we caught a few shooting stars as we unpacked our bikes. We’ll have to make a trip back just to stay up all night looking at the sky, but tonight, we were asleep before our heads hit the pillow.
Spirit Wolf
The New Mexican landscape unfolds like a vivid painting, each scene more enchanting than the last. The high desert plains stretch out in waves of golden sand, the sun-drenched earth glowing with an almost ethereal light. As the day progressed on our way north from Reserve, the colors transformed, casting a mesmerizing spell on anyone fortunate enough to witness them.
The crimson hues of the sandstone cliffs contrast against the deep blue skies, creating a visual that evokes inescapable feelings of awe and wonder. The mountains play their part in the enchantment too, but it’s not just the natural beauty that makes New Mexico so special. It’s no wonder the local Native Americans have such a deep connection to this land. Their ceremonies and art reflect the region’s mystical qualities.
We never felt alone while riding through western New Mexico, as we were acutely aware of a spiritual presence in even the most remote places. As we traversed reservation lands and jumped between canyons and plains, we became increasingly connected to the land. The natural world seemed so surreal, inviting, and mysterious.
Jemez Springs
Dirt roads connected one sparsely populated town to another, and we learned quickly to stock up on supplies any time we passed a gas station. Dried tamarinds and jerky served as our staples for the week.
Heading east out of Cuba along SR 126 was quite a treat as the fresh pavement wound its way into the Santa Fe National Forest. After a few miles, we crossed a cattle gate and the road turned to dirt. As we climbed in elevation again, the pines grew thicker and the road surface transitioned to a fine silt that created an obnoxiously large dust cloud. The air cooled as we followed the twists and turns of the narrow mountain road.
We reached SR 4 and turned south, descending into the tiny town of Jemez Springs just as the sun was beginning to set. It has a couple of restaurants, eclectic art shops, and the hot springs—and that was all we needed. We stayed right next to the hot springs, and after dinner enjoyed a soak in one of the hottest turquoise pools available. This was by far our favorite evening of the trip. If we find ourselves here again, we’ll go out of our way to spend some extra time in Jemez Springs.
Up in the Air
Our trip happened to coincide with the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta—the world’s largest—which takes place in October. Over the course of the fiesta week, more than 600 balloons rise above the Rio Grande Valley, which offers perfect ballooning conditions at this time of year and attracts pilots from more than 50 countries.
We were stoked to participate in one of the most photographed events in the world. We made our way to the fiesta grounds around 4 a.m., hoping to catch a ride in a balloon. We got lucky, but only one of us could get on. After a heated game of rock, paper, scissors, I climbed in the basket while Caleb joined the chase crew on the ground.
It’s an exciting rush, waiting on the ground as balloons begin to rise up around you. The team hustled to prep the balloon and we were schooled on what to do, things to watch for, and what to expect at take-off and landing. That’s when the nerves set in. Flying in a hot air balloon leaves you at the mercy of the wind with no guarantee it will go as planned.
As the basket began ascending, the uneasy feeling disappeared. Rising higher gave me a bird’s eye view of the valley and every hot air balloon around us. It was an incredibly peaceful and quiet experience, aside from the occasional burner blast directly above my head. The balloon floated, almost magically, hundreds of feet above the ground. I didn’t even feel a breeze once airborne—we were traveling with the wind rather than against it.
I now know that a hot air balloon ride is one of the best ways to feel connected to nature. It was as if the spirits of New Mexico were calling to me, “See, now you get it.”
Balloons Over America
The balloon I rode on was piloted by Mark Meyer, a decorated Army pilot with 31 years and more than 8,000 hours of pilot-in-command time. He was one of the most accomplished balloonists at the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta and holds world records for balloon speed and distance flights.
During our flight, Mark demonstrated his expert ballooning skills. He skimmed tree tops, performed a touch-and-go on a narrow sandbar in the middle of the Rio Grande, and glided only inches above the ground to land the balloon exactly where he aimed at. It was amazing to witness him in action and he showed an incredible amount of control, considering we were simply floating weightlessly through the air with no direct steering input.
Mark’s company, Balloons Over America, is based out of Moore County, North Carolina. His crew consists of his wife, Melissa, and several other family members and friends who work hard to help keep his balloons in the air. Mark and his crew attend many balloon festivals all over the country each year, but also offer a variety of on-demand flight experiences in North Carolina.
Facts & Info
Approximately 825 miles
Overview
After spending several days riding through this region of New Mexico, it’s no wonder the state’s nickname is the Land of Enchantment. The stunningly beautiful and varying terrain, along with the remote wilderness, left us feeling connected to the natural world in a unique way.
It’s best to avoid New Mexico during the oppressively hot summer months and stick to swing seasons instead. Be cautious of snow in the higher elevations, even when it’s warm in the valley. If you’re planning a trip in early October, be sure to do so ahead of time due to the Balloon Fiesta!
Roads & Riding
New Mexico offers a unique combination of desert and mountain riding, especially in the area covered on this tour. If you’re an off-road or dual sport rider, you’ll have endless trails to explore in this region. Pavement riders will also find a variety of wide-open highways through the desert and twisty curves in the mountains.
This route is about 50/50 road and trail. An adventure or dual sport bike is required to complete this tour, and I suggest using the buddy system as this route can be quite remote. Be sure your motorcycle has at least 120 miles of range, as you’ll need it for the ride through Chloride Canyon. The terrain varies from loose and sandy to hard-packed and rocky. Rain could make some sections quite slippery.
Recommended Lodging: Hidden Springs Inn
Located within the Gila National Forest, Hidden Springs Inn is a charming little Southwest-style motel. Located seven miles from the town of Reserve, it is close enough to easily find provisions yet sufficiently remote to enjoy nature and escape the hustle and bustle of the city. The on-site restaurant serves a generous portion for breakfast, so be sure to come hungry.