Sep/Oct '22 Premium Content Riding in Cuba: Revolution, Raki, and Rum In 1996, I cruised to Cuba at night like smuggled human freight in Ernest Hemingway’s To Have and Have Not. “Okay, vee go now,” said Rolf, a feisty Swede, tossing me two thick bungee cords to lash my BMW R 100 GS PD to the rail. “Be quick. Vee