The Riding the Edge of the Adriatic
A couple of years ago, I found myself chasing curves and coastlines on one of the most unforgettable rides—a nine-day motorcycle tour through Germany, Austria, Slovenia, Italy, and Croatia. Organized by Lilli Tours, this trip was a finely tuned symphony of scenery, twisty roads, delicious food, and two-wheeled bliss.
The trip began a couple of days early as we made our way across the Atlantic on a sleepless red-eye to Munich, Germany. Jet-lagged and longing for a bed, we arrived at the hotel we’d call home for the next two nights. Knowing that napping would only throw us off for the rest of the trip, we decided to power through the day and sync up to local time.
It just so happened to be the first day of Oktoberfest, the world’s largest beer festival and folk celebration. Held annually in Munich at the beginning of fall, it draws more than six million people over the course of nearly three weeks.
The Germans, as we quickly learned, know how to party.
Oktoberfest
We wandered through the Theresienwiese fairgrounds in astonishment. Most attendees wore traditional attire—lederhosen for men and dirndls for women—while brass bands playing folk music blared from every direction.
The scent of sausage and fried food filled the air as roller coasters and Ferris wheels loomed overhead. Tents sold trinkets such as lebkuchenherzen, the iconic gingerbread hearts decorated with colorful icing and strung on ribbons to wear around your neck. They’re more keepsakes than snacks—the cookies are rock hard.
But the real heart of Oktoberfest lies in the beer tents. Well, if you can call these massive, elaborately decorated halls tents. Some seat more than 8,000 people inside, plus more outdoors. Each tent is tied to a Munich brewery and rebuilt every year.
Inside, we quickly realized we were out of our depth. Tables weren’t for sitting; they were for standing on.
Motorcycle & Gear
BMW F900 R, BMW F900 XR, BMW R1250 GS
Helmet: HJC RPHA 11 Pro
Jacket: Klim Marrakesh
Pants: Klim Marrakesh
Boots: Gaerne Balanced Oiled
Gloves: Klim Marrakesh
Comm System: Cardo Packtalk Edge
Camera: Nikon Z6II, 24-70mm F2.8, 28-300 F3.5
A live band played on the center stage while the crowd shouted along. Beer glasses clinked and foam sloshed. A friendly local noticed our wide-eyed expressions and explained the rules: tables are reserved, and you need a table to order beer—so your best bet is to make friends, fast.
After a few attempts at German-English conversation, we were welcomed onto a table. We sang, drank, and laughed late into the night. Welcome to Germany.
Into the Alps
The next day, after picking up a pair of rental BMWs, we eased out of Munich on familiar-feeling European roads before climbing into the Alps. One of my first observations was that German drivers are incredibly courteous to motorcyclists—a universally European attitude I wish Americans would adopt.
Our fearless guide for the next two weeks, Uwe, led us through the bustling city until we hit the Bavarian backroads. Farmland stretched to the horizon, dotted with turquoise lakes, as we headed for the Austrian border.
Crossing Borders
I’ll admit, I was excited to collect five stamps in my passport. Imagine my mild disappointment, then, when we rode straight through the Austrian border without a stop. Traveling freely between European Union countries was both anticlimactic and a relief.