Pennsylvania SR 144: A Beguiling Backcountry Byway
My first assignment for RoadRUNNER was a 2003 roundtrip in Pennsylvania with the magazine’s founder, Christian Neuhauser. SR 144 was part of that journey and I’ve been drawn back to ride it again several times. It’s a ride that has never disappointed. The tarmac twists and turns, rises and falls in a remote mountainous landscape—it’s a region in north-central Pennsylvania that few out-of-state riders know about.
The southern terminus of SR 144 is at an exit from US 322, which is a little over two miles east of State College, PA. The southern section of the route has several fascinating points of interest, but my favorite part begins in Snow Shoe, where the route heads northeast as it climbs up onto a high plateau. Sproul State Forest is devoid of settlements and traffic is scarce. This remote island in the sky produces, at least in me, a feeling of ethereal riding bliss.
Although the High Plateau Scenic Byway ends in Renovo, SR 144 leads farther north until it finally terminates in the picturesque village of Galeton. From there, US 6 leads to Colton Rd. This secondary road goes to Colton Point State Park with a spell-binding overlook of Pennsylvania’s Grand Canyon.
This journey into Pennsylvania’s mountainous backcountry is appropriate for most experienced street riders. Because of limited sightlines and the high likelihood of large fauna (like elk and deer) wandering onto roadways, a moderate speed is recommended. Due to limited services along the route, top off your fuel tank and pack food before departure. Although the roads are usually in reasonably good condition, winter storms can take their toll—watch for gravel and potholes, especially in spring.
Points of Interest
Penn's Cave
Centuries ago, Seneca Native Americans discovered this water-filled cave in what is today known as Penn’s Valley in the Ridge and Valley Province of the Appalachians. Surface streams often burrow underground in the soft karst rock formations of the narrow valleys. Penn’s Cave first opened as a tourist attraction in 1885. Visitors can take a one-hour, narrated tour that winds through narrow passageways in a flat-bottomed motorboat. Because the cave’s temperature remains at a constant 52 degrees year round, it’s wise to bring a jacket.
Historical Bellefonte, PA
Bellefonte has one of the most pristinely preserved collections of Victorian buildings in America. The Bellefonte Historic District was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1977. A driving/riding tour takes visitors past nearly 60 structures built between 1850 and 1900. My favorite historical home among this group is the Reynolds Mansion Bed and Breakfast, completed in 1884. Bellefonte has been home to five Pennsylvania governors and two from other states. The town has transformed through the years from an epicenter of industry and politics to a charmingly beautiful village that merges history, art, culture, and stunning 19th-century architecture.
Renovo, PA
Considered the most remote town in Pennsylvania, Renovo is a small village perched on the West Branch Susquehanna River. It has a history of industrious immigrants from Europe, commercial growth fostered primarily by the railroad, and, then, economic decline after the Pennsylvania Railroad’s shops were consolidated into facilities at other locations. The population declined from a peak of around 5,000 to a little over 1,000 today. Nevertheless, riding through Renovo evokes sepia-toned images of classic American small towns from the mid-20th century. The biggest event of the year is the PA State Flaming Foliage Festival each fall.
Pine Creek Gorge Overlook
The 800-foot-deep Pine Creek Gorge is also known as the Grand Canyon of Pennsylvania. The gorge was scoured out by melting glacial ice and water during the last ice age. Colton Point State Park is on the west side of the gorge with an overlook that peers deep into the abyss. From the overlook, visitors may spot bicyclists on the trail tracing the creek’s meanders through the 47-mile-long gorge, alongside kayakers navigating this scenic, wild river. About 1,000 feet across the gorge is the eastern side overlook in Leonard Harrison State Park.
Recommended Lodging: Hampton Inn State College
The Hampton Inn is not far from the main campus of Penn State University. Guest amenities include a gym, pool, bar/lounge, restaurant, an elevator to the upper floors, and the usual in-room conveniences and toiletries provided by a nationally recognized hotel chain.
Expect heavy traffic in and around State College on fall weekends when the Nittany Lions are playing a home football game. From the hotel, you’ll get to SR 144 via US 322 and SR 45 eastbound.
Recommended Lodging: Penn Wells Lodge
Bed down for the night in a classic small and motorcycle-friendly town that could have been a movie set for It’s A Wonderful Life or a 1950s family sitcom. Penn Wells Lodge’s visitor attractions (in addition to the comfortable and well-sized rooms) include two restaurants, an indoor heated swimming pool, a convenience store, and elevators to the upper floors.
After retracing Colton Rd back from the Pine Creek Gorge overlook to US 6, ride 11 miles east to the Penn Wells lodge.
Food & Dining
- The Tavern Restaurant: Serving downtown State College since 1948, the Tavern Restaurant is newly renovated and focuses on contemporary American cuisine served in the comfortable historical ambiance of a colonial tavern. Alfresco and rooftop seating options can further enhance the dining experience. Find it at 220 E College Ave, State College, PA.
- Wellsboro Diner: The classic rail car-styled Wellsboro Diner has been a favorite eatery among touring motorcyclists for many years. Its attractive price range and retro ambiance keeps them coming back, whenever they’re in the area. Specialties include hot roast beef sandwiches smothered in gravy and made-from-scratch pies. The menu also includes vegetarian options. Find it at 19 Main St, Wellsboro, PA.
Best Time to Travel
The best time to make this ride is typically between April and September. Autumn colors can be blissful, but temperatures can drop rapidly in October.
The route’s altitude (at least from an East Coast perspective) can make the ride comfortable even in the humid summer months. Traffic is usually light.