Johnson City, Tennessee Shamrock Tour®

Johnson City lies just on the edge of the Cherokee National Forest in the northeastern corner of Tennessee. The city is claimed to be one of the first settled areas in the state, originating in the late 1700s, but it didn’t get its name until 1856 when Henry Johnson set up a train depot that joined three railway systems. The area quickly became a hub for travel and trade. These days, Johnson City is known for its nightlife, small local businesses, and quick access to lots of outdoor activities. For motorcyclists, this means there’s a lot to see and do in the evenings, and plenty of roads to explore during the day!

Vinegar Pie

We began our ride by heading west out of town, connecting backroads as we went and making our way through Fall Branch, Churchill, and Rogersville, all of which are very small towns near the major highways. We rode through farmlands and the beautiful Tennessee countryside all morning, only stopping a couple of times for photos. We turned onto Hwy 66, which heads north toward Sneedville, TN. The road began to tighten up as we zoomed through Stone Gap, quickly turning back and forth as it flowed over the mountain.

Vinegar pie is a southern dessert dating back as far as the 18th century. The pie comes from a family of recipes known as “desperation pies,” or pies made with more readily found ingredient substitutions, which were often baked by poorer families. Back in the day, finding citrus fruit was not always easy due to either supply or cost. Lemon pies were often made with vinegar as a substitute for lemon juice, which helps the pie keep its acidic taste despite not having access to all the proper ingredients. Clinch Mountain Lookout Restaurant is one of the very few places that still makes vinegar pie. Of course we had to pull in and check it out.

The building smelled sweet and sour at the same time, and we knew we were in the right place to try the famous Clinch Mountain Vinegar Pie! We arrived just as the pies were cooling, so we tried them warm rather than the traditional cold version with whipped cream. The smooth yellow filling had a consistency similar to chess pie. It was very sweet yet left a tangy aftertaste, distinctive of its powerful lemon substitute.

As the sun beat down on us, we arrived at Elrod Falls, south of Sneedville. Elrod Falls is a three-stage waterfall with two upper cascades that require a strenuous climb to reach. The lower pool is deep enough to swim in and makes a perfect spot for a mid-ride plunge! After the refreshing dip, we turned south on Hwy 31, carving up the switchback corners through Flat Gap. Having barely missed a rain shower, the road was wet and the heat of the sun caused steam to slowly rise from the pavement. We wound our way back to Johnson City, making quick time to avoid the overwhelming afternoon humidity.

Grandfather Mountain

Leaving town to the east along Hwy 321 brought us to Watauga Point Recreational Area along the banks of Watauga Lake. We rode around the point before stopping to have a picnic breakfast that we had packed with us. It was a beautiful summer day, and several fishermen were out in their boats trying their luck. Mountains surround this lake, making it a peaceful spot to sit and observe.

Turning off Hwy 321, we took small one-lane mountainous backroads through Flat Springs, NC, before turning south toward Banner Elk. The roads through this area were narrow, with tight corners and thick foliage that hung over the roadway, so we had to stay alert for oncoming traffic. Hwy 221, east out of Linville, curves its way up to Grandfather Mountain, a 5,946-foot peak that’s claimed to be 300 million years old. Due to pandemic-related restrictions, we were unable to enter the State Park, and instead turned onto the Blue Ridge Parkway for a short jaunt up to the Linn Cove Viaduct. The viaduct was the last seven-mile portion of the Blue Ridge Parkway to be completed and features a bridged roadway along the eastern side of Grandfather Mountain. The views of the rolling Blue Ridge Mountains along the viaduct were gorgeous. Stopping for a moment at a pull-off area, we watched as clouds dumped rain in the distance.

Upon returning to Johnson City, we set out on a mission to find some local brews from Yee-Haw Brewing Company and a good burger. In our quest to find beer, we came across another rider named Hector, who was riding the Trans America Trail on his KLR. We joined forces and found a great burger joint called Mid City Grill, located just off the square. Mid City is a BYOB establishment that serves delicious burger options and a wide variety of appetizers. Our conversation lasted well into the night before we parted ways with Hector, sending him off to complete his first big dual sport adventure.

Never-ending Twisty Roads

South of Johnson City lie some of the best twisty paved motorcycling roads in the Eastern U.S. We started by riding Hwy 197 through Indian Grave Gap, which crosses the Appalachian Trail at the Tennessee-North Carolina border. This area is encompassed by the Pisgah National Forest, and follows the Nolichucky and North Toe Rivers. The dense forest was a bright green and lots of wildlife lined the sides of the roads. Following the Nolichucky River, we spotted a bald eagle perched on a branch, looking for fish in the water below. We stopped just in time to watch as the majestic bird took off and followed the river downstream, chasing its meal.

The highway came into the town of Burnsville, NC, and we were eager to find some coffee and a snack. We stumbled upon Appalachian Java, a small coffee shop and bistro on the town square. Seating was limited, but we were lucky enough to grab a two-top table set up on the sidewalk. We tried their delicious coffee, quiche, and tomato soup, and then finished the meal off with a giant oatmeal cream pie cookie. It was all absolutely phenomenal.

We continued following Hwy 197 as it snaked its way south, enjoying several sections of tight switchback corners. South of Marshall, NC, Hwy 63 turns north and runs through Doggett Gap before joining Hwy 209 in Trust. This section of highway is known as The Rattler and stretches 15 miles from Trust to Hot Springs with lots of sweeping and decreasing-radius corners. The road is narrow in most spots with lots of driveways and side roads, and we were careful to avoid run-ins with other vehicles as we came around blind corners.

From Hot Springs, we traveled northeast and back into Johnson City for the evening. No visit to Johnson City would be complete without some good BBQ, so we headed over to Southern Craft BBQ to try their melt-in-your-mouth smoked brisket and to-die-for pulled pork.

Roan Mountain

The last day of our Shamrock Tour took us through Tiger Valley via small, single-lane backroads that circumnavigate a portion of Cherokee National Forest. The sun was hidden behind a dense fog and despite it being July, we were a bit chilly. The road was still damp with morning dew that splattered our face shields with a fine mist. Turning onto Hwy 143, we rode into Roan Mountain State Park and to the entrance of the Roan High Bluff Cloudland Trail. The aforementioned thick fog surrounded us, but we decided to make the trek anyway. The hike to the bluff is just over a half mile, and climbs steadily upward past thick spruce and fir trees and rhododendron bushes. At the summit, a large observation deck allowed us to get right up to the edge of the bluff. The clouds had dispersed by the time we reached the top, and we watched hawks glide below us, catching updrafts and riding the wind as if they had a sail.

The rest of the afternoon, we focused on the amazing curvy roads that led us back into Johnson City. After four days of riding twisties like this, you start to get a swaying feeling when you get off the bike, almost as if getting off a boat after a long day. Would you call this bike sickness, rather than sea sickness? The twists and turns had been never-ending over the past several days, and we were sad to have to leave one of our favorite parts of the country.

Facts & Info

Distance: Approximately 720 miles

Overview

Whether you love carving the twisty roads or cruising the open highway, the Johnson City area is for you! Located near some of the best motorcycling roads in the U.S., Johnson City is a fantastic option for a riding getaway. The town’s nightlife will keep you entertained once you park for the evening, with plenty of great restaurants and bars to choose from. There are a variety of hiking trails, waterfalls, and overlooks that you can ride to.

Roads & Biking

There is truly a variety of tarmac for you to explore in this area. To the west, you’ll find more open spaces with long stretches of highway, and to the east you’ll find tighter roads with more twists and turns. Road conditions are generally good, but keep an eye on gravel driveway washouts and vehicles turning around blind corners. There is one short stretch (about a mile) of gravel road to get to the Roan High Bluff Cloudland Trail, but it is easy and doable on any type of motorcycle.

Resources

• Johnson City Tourism
• Tennessee Trails & Byways
• Southern Dozen
• Roan Mountain State Park
• Tennessee River Valley
• North Carolina Tourism

Motorcycles & Gear

2005 KTM 950 Adventure
2007 KTM 990 Adventure

Helmets: HJC RPHA11 Pro
Jackets & Pants: Klim Marrakesh
Boots: Gaerne Balanced Oiled, Sidi Lady Gavia GORE-TEX
Gloves: Klim Marrakesh