Roundtrip Tour

Italy: 10 Passes of the Dolomites

Geoff Tompkinson

14 min read

The setting sun cast its gorgeous rays over the hairpins of SS242 snaking across the top of the magnificent Sella Pass, with the three iconic peaks of the Sassolungo looming in the background.

Since we started writing motorcycle touring articles, my wife and I have been lucky enough to ride in wonderful locations around the world: California, Hawaii, New Zealand, most of the Canary Islands, and a collection of great European locations. So, motorcyclists often ask me, “Which is the best place to ride, Geoff?”

That’s an impossible question to answer definitively, since it’s a matter of opinion that depends on what sort of riding you like. Long straights through vast, big scenery. Sweeping high-speed bends through rolling hills and valleys. Tight twisting curves climbing and descending spectacular mountain passes. Off-road adventure exploring seldom-seen locations. The list goes on.

The Sella group is one of the Dolomites’ iconic views and can be circumnavigated on a motorcycle via the Campolongo, Pordoi, Sella, and Gardena passes. Here, the plateau-shaped range is seen from the Gardena Pass.

As a photographer first and biker second, my choice comes down to the views. The pictures I can shoot along the way are just as important as the sheer joy and Zen-like feeling of riding a motorcycle. I’m not an experienced off-road rider, so I can’t comment on that. As for everything else, I like it all—so long as it’s visually captivating.

Motorcycles & Gear

2021 Kawasaki Versys 1000
2021 Yamaha Tracer 9 GT

Helmet: Shoei Neotec
Jacket: Held Cool System Leather, Helite airbag vests
Pants: ProBiker Textile
Boots: Alpinestars New Land Gore-Tex
Gloves: Vanucci Viscolab
Luggage: Givi XS307 tankbag
Comms: Sena 20S Evo

If you are looking for tight, technical climbing and descending twisties on mountain passes with views all around, then the Italian Dolomites are unmatched. It’s as if this mountainous land has been ribboned with snaking asphalt just to create a motorcycling paradise. The mountains are taller, more jagged, and closer to the rider than anywhere else, with views not just on one side but all around. The villages, towns, architecture, and cuisine are all incredible.

Between 1897 and 1900, the Austro-Hungarian army built the Forte Tre Sassi on the top of the Valparola Pass. Partially destroyed by Italian artillery during WWI, it now serves as a fascinating war museum.

It really can be the most memorable trip, but go at the wrong time and the roads will be clogged. June to September bring out bicycles, cars, and vehicles too big to get around some hairpins. Frustrated motorcyclists sometimes make poor decisions by trying to overtake car drivers who are keen to overtake someone themselves. It’s dangerous and not a lot of fun. Timing your visit is all-important to get the best out of this amazing place. Then, the Italian Dolomites will truly be one of the world’s best riding destinations.

We often like to base ourselves in the Selva di Val Gardena region (called Wolkenstein in German, but don’t confuse it with the town in eastern Germany), as it has good hotels and restaurants. But more importantly, it gives you easy access to these 10 surrounding mountain passes.