Riding The Pig Trail in Arkansas
Some of the most scenic and twisty motorcycle riding in the U.S. is in the Ozark Mountains of northwestern Arkansas. Geologists estimate that the Ozarks were formed some 1.65 billion years ago, making them America’s oldest. Over time, weather has eroded their overall height and created steep-sided valleys. Two-lane roads through this verdant terrain offer a bounty of curves and elevation changes. SR 23 is a challenging, scenic strip of two-lane tarmac running north-south through the region. Along the way, several connecting side routes lead to must-see points of interest.
The adventure on SR 23 begins in Ozark, AR, located on the north bank of the Arkansas River at the southern edge of the Ozark Mountains. This area was the filming location for the 2003 reality TV show The Simple Life. Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie were depicted as wealthy socialites struggling to do farm and other low-paying work in rural America.
The 120-mile-long motorcycle ride starts on the Pig Trail Scenic Byway. It comprises 19 miles of SR 23 north from Ozark to Brashers. The serpentine, tree-canopied passage through Ozark National Forest is the opening salvo of a hill-acious ride. From Brashers, the route continues north on SR 23 until heading west on SR 12, which leads to War Eagle Mill. This water wheel-powered grist mill is fully operational and open for tours. In addition, food trucks, snacks, and refreshments await parched travelers.
After circling back, SR 23 pushes north to historical Eureka Springs with its collection of Victorian-style architecture. After departing SR 23 onto SR 187, you’ll soon cross over the White River on the single-lane Beaver Bridge (also called Arkansas’ Little Golden Gate). Later, you ride east on US 62, which leads past two more points of interest and then takes you back to Eureka Springs for dinner and overnight lodging.
When riding the rapid sequence of sharp curves, vertiginous drop-offs, limited sightlines, and frequent elevation changes, don’t be tempted to outrun your angels. Maintain a safe speed, which should provide sufficient thrills and, hopefully, no spills. Given the challenging nature of the route and the possibility of road-crossing critters, I don’t recommend riding after dark.
Points of Interest
War Eagle Mill
In times past, stream-powered mills were community gathering places for farmers to have their grains ground into flour and trees sawed into lumber and other necessities. The fully functional War Eagle Mill (built around 1832) is still a popular gathering place for visitors. Today’s fourth incantation of the mill, like the original one, is powered by an 18-foot undershot-type water wheel fashioned from cypress. A one-lane wood-and-steel truss bridge (c. 1907) crosses over the War Eagle Creek next to the mill. War Eagle, AR, also offers tasty sustenance, group tours of the mill, live entertainment, craft fairs, and other attractions.
Beaver Bridge
Although clearly not as long, wide, or tall as that other Golden Gate Bridge in California, Beaver Bridge nevertheless has its charms as an iconic structure in the Ozarks. The Little Golden Gate is a one-lane, wood-surfaced, wire-cable suspension bridge spanning the White River near the town of Beaver. It was featured in the 2005 movie Elizabethtown. Located on SR 187, it’s reportedly the last single-lane suspension bridge open to vehicular traffic in Arkansas. Be sure to look for any oncoming traffic before starting across it.
Thorncrown Chapel
Rising to 48 feet, the Thorncrown Chapel has over 6,000 square feet of glass, 425 windows, a native flagstone floor, and a diamond-shaped pattern of wood trusses. These architectural features combine to form an organic structure ensconced in a natural Ozark landscape. Owing to the constantly changing patterns of light and color, the ambiance inside the chapel varies during the day and even more dramatically over the seasons. This award-winning architectural gem was designed by E. Fay Jones, who served a fellowship with Frank Lloyd Wright at Taliesin. Since the chapel’s opening in 1980, millions have visited the splendid structure.
Razorback Tower & Gift Shop
To better appreciate the Ozark’s mountainous landscape, you need to get high—but only from an elevation perspective. Arkansas, originally, had some 173 fire towers to report forest fires in its state and national forests. Today, less than 25 are believed to be still standing. Several of them have been turned into tourist attractions for visitors wanting an elevated perspective of the Ozark landscape. You will need only four quarters to access the Razorback Tower, which stands 100 feet high. After an exhilarating climb up and back down, the gift shop awaits with trinkets to memorialize your… Er, death-defying feat.
Facts & Info
Recommended Lodging
1886 Crescent Hotel and Spa
This historical landmark hotel, built in 1886, has a spa, four restaurants, air conditioning, balcony overlooks of the Ozark Mountains, a buffet breakfast, free Wi-Fi, and ghost tours. Having overnighted here numerous times, I’ve yet to personally spot a ghost, but there’s always hope I will next time.
The hotel is at the topographical peak of Eureka Springs’ Historic District, which is spread up the steep elevation of a hill.
Food & Dining
Local Flavor Café is conveniently located in historical downtown Eureka Springs on SR 23/Main St. The cafe offers a fresh, creative menu for lunch, dinner, and Sunday Brunch. The cuisine has American, Italian, and French influences. Outside seating is available. Find it at 71 S Main St, Eureka Springs, AR.
Best Time to Travel
The most comfortable and scenic time for touring here is in late fall, when trees are ablaze with color and daytime temperatures are moderate. Since the route is fully paved, almost any well-maintained street bike and experienced street rider are appropriate for the tour.
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