Shamrock Tour® - Ashland, Oregon

Text: Robert Smith • Photography: Robert Smith

On November 27, 1941, travelers on US Highway 99 south of Yreka, Caifornia were astonished to find a band of men blocking the road and waving hunting rifles. They handed out a Proclamation of Independence, which informed one and all that the State of Jefferson was in "patriotic rebellion against the States of California and Oregon" and would continue to "secede every Thursday until further notice..."

But in spite of having gone to the trouble of inaugurating John C. Childs of Yreka as the chief executive of their new State of Jefferson, the secession movement lasted just two weeks. On December 7, 1941, attention turned to Pearl Harbor and the conflict in the Pacific.

One of the least populated and last settled areas on the continent, the counties of the Klamath, Smith and Rogue River watersheds on the Oregon-California border have long believed themselves hard done by. An earlier proposal for a State of Jefferson lost out to the establishment of the State of Oregon in 1859, and the 1941 "secession" sprang from the apparent indifference of the governing bodies in Salem and Sacramento to the condition of Jefferson's roads. Ironically, World War II did more to improve infrastructure than the "secession," but the idea of a State of Jefferson persists - thanks mainly to the region's NPR station, Jefferson Public Radio, based at Southern Oregon University.

Arrival in Ashland from the south on I-5 follows a sweeping descent from the 4,300-ft Siskiyou Summit, on one of the Interstate system's steepest grades. Topographically, Ashland nestles in a narrow rift between the Coast and Cascade Ranges, which squeeze together near the OR-CA border. To the west are the forested peaks and passes of the Siskiyou Mountains, and in the east, the (mostly) dormant volcanoes of the Pacific Ring of Fire.

In addition to the four-year public university of SOU, Ashland's intellectual climate is enriched by its annual Shakespeare Festival, which runs during most of the summer. Street performers gather to display their skills in downtown Lithia Park, musicians practice on street corners, and the town displays a generally festive air with all the banners fluttering, window decorations touting the event, and the customer overflow in the cafés spilling out on the street. It's all quite agreeable.

Based here for the next four days to ride some of the best roads in "Jefferson," with my home away from home at the Ashland Springs Hotel, the city's grande dame, which is easily the tallest downtown building at eight stories, I'm riding BMW's jack-of-all-trades R 1200 GS, rented from Dubbelju Motorcycle Rentals in San Francisco. And since I'm going to be here while the festival's on, I may even take in one of the bard's plays too!

(End of preview text.)

For the complete touring article, including facts & information, map(s), and GPS files, please purchase the September/October 2009 back issue.