Wyoming and South Dakota: Where Indians Roam Again

Text: Alfonse Palaima • Photography: Alfonse Palaima

Given only rough guidelines and a new touring motorcycle, I set off to explore Wyoming on two wheels following the Sturgis Rally in August. My goal: bring home a “living with proof” report on what Indian Motorcycle calls the best of their best, the Roadmaster.

Impeccably suited to fit on a printed map, Wyoming borders South Dakota to its west with a near-perfect rectangular shape. Inside that box, you’ll find Yellowstone, America’s first National Park, and the natural landmark made famous by its depiction as a hidden spaceport in the 1970s classic, Close Encounters of the Third Kind. Mountain peaks to grassy plains … cowboys to Indians … this state is quite remarkable and the subject of this eastside mini-tour.

Small Town, Big Rain

Taking the western spoke out of Sturgis on Route 34, I’m passing through Belle Fourche (avoiding the interstate whenever possible) on my way toward Sheridan, WY, tonight. But, my first stop is the famed Devils Tower along with some weather to hurdle. With no direct backroads between Sturgis and Sheridan, I pick a pair of northward arches that travel east to west north of the U.S. 90 freeway. Crossing the border into Wyoming, Route 34 becomes Route 24 just as the skies darken—time for lunch and a little radar detecting. I’m hoping to slip through a gap in the clouds upon my exit. Around these parts, storm clouds could mean serious trouble—lightening or road washouts—so it’s a good idea to keep weather apps on standby.

Traveling along popular rider paths between Devils Tower and Sturgis, traces of rallygoers and biker parties keep me connected to the bash back in South Dakota. In the three-block-long town of Hulett (population less than 400), T-shirt and patch vendors join the few standing brick and mortar restaurants in town and make for a friendly lunch stop. In the back alley, there’s even a stage entertaining the other partygoers with their own version of classic rock.

I’m not 10 miles from Hulett when the rain falls heavy for only 15-20 minutes, but that’s plenty to soak me to the bone (carrying no rain gear makes for a dumb, drenched Alfonse). That said, there is no point in stopping for a hike around the Tower in this weather, so I press on toward the freeway (making a right at the T with Route 14) and grab fuel in Gillette.

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For the complete touring article, including facts & information, map(s), and GPS files, please purchase the March/April 2015 back issue.