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World Travelers
East Africa » Nov/Dec '09
We are in Cape Town, South Africa, our bikes parked behind us. Bathed in the pink glow of the evening sun, our bodies weary and worn, we have ridden 24,000 miles through 11 African countries. We walk over the sand down to the water’s edge, where the cool green waves of the Atlantic lap against our bare feet. A moment to savor – feels so good to...
West Africa » Sept/Oct '09
In the dim morning light, a glance down at my watch confirms it’s 6:30am. We broke camp and left Dakhla (Morocco’s southernmost town) an hour ago. I ease my grip on the handlebars and take in a deep breath. The wind drying my face does little to relieve the anxiety I feel as we ride south to the notorious Mauritanian border. Lisa is tucked in behind...
Into Africa » Jul/Aug '09
Clinging precariously to the northern tip of Africa, Ceuta is the last Spanish enclave in this vast continent and the point from which our Moroccan adventure begins. At the border, it’s late November and 100 degrees. We park in the shade, and Lisa has to remain behind, guarding the bikes, because, under Moroccan law, wives are still regarded as ‘property’....
Western Norway and Russia » May/Jun '09
The ocean crossing from the Scottish Highlands to Norway has taken 22 hours. Waiting for the okay to progress ashore, I sit astride my BMW GS on the ferry’s worn polished deck and do my best to ignore the cold, gnawing wind. My thoughts drift back to countless warm evenings over the past three years, nights that Lisa and I had spent in preparation,...
Our new World Travelers » Mar/Apr '09
In May 2003, Lisa and I left our jobs, sold everything and on two BMW motorcycles set off to see the world. The plan seemed simple enough – ride, eat, sleep and repeat until we had our fill of the 122 countries and 7 continents the planet has on offer. The decision to depart on our journey six years ago was not a simple one. A number of tough circumstances...
Japan » Jan/Feb '09
I’ve been on the trail for so long the prospect of crossing a river that might swallow the front wheel doesn’t bother me much. You could say I’ve grown accustomed to the wilds—even the fresh tracks of those big furred salmon-eaters I recently came across in Alaska provided me with a thrill that was more excitement than fright—and the only...
Italy's Wild Heart » Nov/Dec '08
"Why wander around in the distance, when good things lie nearby?" Long after his passing, these sage words of German poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe were the inspiration for our motorcycle journey. Goethe was so enthusiastic about the prospect of seeing Italy that in 1786 he boarded a stagecoach in the middle of the night and headed south. His adventurous...
China » Sept/Oct '08
Delicate white lilac blooms and the rosy blush of peach tree blossoms herald the arrival of spring in Beijing. Some Chinese residents have helped me with the importation of my motorcycle into the country, and now my new friend Pai and I are strolling in the glorious garden of the New Summer Palace. After the long, cold winter I spent in Germany, the...
Mexico, Part 2: The North » May/Jun '08
A Mexican in a white sombrero rides his donkey on the dusty gravel road in front of us. His appearance in this deserted region presents an unexpected opportunity to ask if he knows of a shortcut through the mountains of the Sierra Madre. Squinting, he scans the surrounding hillsides. Perhaps assuming that we are on the brink of light-headedly risking...
Mexico, Part 1: The South » Mar/Apr '08
Traveling northwest from Guatemala, we reach Chiapas. Mexico's southernmost state is referred to as "Mundo Mayas," the gate to the world of the Mayas. At 6,900 feet, in a densely forested valley in the mountains of the Sierra Madre, lies San Cristóbal de las Casas. This lively town is a unique mixture of Spanish and Pre-Columbian architecture...
