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Southern Utah and Northern Arizona » Mar/Apr '10

“Nobody goes up the mountain anymore,” laments Bob, my newfound, 76-year-old friend. “Everybody takes the highway. You got to go up the mountain!” Since this local character clearly has had much time to collect wisdom, I decide I best take him up on his advice....

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Reader Ride - Northern Arizona » Jan/Feb '10

Extreme elevation changes, serpentine stretches of blacktop, and awe-inspiring scenery are the rule, not the exception in Northern Arizona. In a loop-ride of just over 300 miles, one can sample most of what makes this region world-famous. Visit a mining town, ride along the south rim of the Grand Canyon, buy Native American jewelry on the Navajo Reservation,...

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Southeastern Arizona » Jul/Aug '09

As we are finishing a preview of a typical Frank Lloyd Wright museum tour, our gracious guide, Kimberly Higgenbotham, tells us that when asked which of his projects was his favorite, Wright would invariably reply “the next one.” It occurs to me that this might be my own response to the question of which is my favorite road trip… but then it is...

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Grand Canyon Suite » Jul/Aug '08

We leave the North Rim of Grand Canyon around five o'clock, hesitating for a moment about missing the sunset on the Painted Desert, but realizing that would put us on the road after dark. As we turn northeast at Jacob Lake, we're delighted by the twisty, curvy trail through the rocks. Christa picks up the pace, and I float down the mountain, the Ninja...

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In Arizona and New Mexico » Mar/Apr '08

It's hot, an "airless" afternoon, when I park the K1200R and hike across bus-sized boulders to Spider Rock Overlook at Canyon de Chelly. I snap my camera onto the tripod to take a self-timer shot, set the shutter and pose near the edge. Just then, caprice whips up a solid gust of wind – and the tripod falls. The camera slams into the rock like...

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Classic Byways: US Highway 191 - Arizona » Sept/Oct '06

A little north of Tombstone, the coyote (Roadrunnerus digestus) emerges from the low scrub brush on the dusty shoulder of Arizona's Route 80. He stops mid-trot and watches with apparent nonchalance as our RoadRUNNER Gold Wing (Burn-em-upus asphaltus) breezes by. But I'm not fooled by his insouciance – years of Saturday mornings have taught me...

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Moab to Los Angeles: Mother Lode of the Mother Road » Jul/Aug '06

Monument Valley, that dreamy, spiritual, red-rock vista so lovingly exploited by automobile ad directors must indeed be an impressive sight at sunrise or sunset, when the warm light and strong shadows etch its soaring spires and buttes against the sky. But under the cover of high clouds on a hazy, humid October afternoon, with a blustery wind kicking...

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Through Trees of Stone » Mar/Apr '05

The wind howls across the Arizona plains as I aim a Honda Gold Wing 1800 toward the Petrified Forest National Park on US 180 east. I lean the 850-pound machine into the gusts to hold a straight line. The Painted Desert spreads before me – a vast horizon of cracked earth and colored sandstone – and the cloudless sky is tinged with a red...

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Northern Arizona » Sept/Oct '04

I awake in Flagstaff to a dusting of snow on the trees and bushes. More of the same is heaped upon the naked rock that crowns Humphrey’s Peak, the highest point in Arizona. This sharp summit, stretching 12,633 feet above this old railroad town, tears holes in the fast-moving storm clouds, and I’ll come to use it like the North Star to navigate in...

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Southern Arizona » Sept/Oct '03

Few places on earth offer more diversity. One moment I'm sweating bullets and then, less than an hour later at times, I've pulled over, teeth chattering, to hurriedly button the jacket liner into my shell so I can stuff my fingertips back in my gloves before they turn blue. Northeast out of Phoenix, the elevation is 1,000 feet and the temperature is...

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