Reader Ride - New Hampshire

Cheshire County Loop

At anytime during riding season, the Cheshire County Loop offers an excellent day's ride for any motorcyclist. In the spring, when life is bursting forth, the earthy smells awaken a sense of adventure. On a quiet summer day, the tree-canopied roadways tease with dappled sunshine, and the ponds and lakes glint and reflect the sky above. And then autumn is perhaps the best, with New England's stunning palette of reds and golds painting the hillsides.

Start at the Irving Station on Route 101 at the Milford/Wilton line where you can fill the tank, have one last coffee, or purchase a few snacks for the road. Then head out on Route 31 north. Don't blink passing through Wilton or else you'll miss the town hall, a magnificent structure that dominates Main Street. On the approach into Greenfield, there's a big surprise: a large trebuchet aimed at a mock castle facade. In the fall the trebuchet is pressed into action and loaded with gourds that are hurled toward the fortress at the annual Pumkin' Chunkin' event.

From the town center of Greenfield, follow the signs for Greenfield State Park, continue on Forest Road, and soon, at the Hancock/Greenfield line, you'll cross the stream spilling from the Powder Mill Pond on the first of two picturesque covered bridges in the day's loop.

Cross directly at Route 202 and continue on Forest Road to connect with Route 123. Reconstructed after a flood inundated the area in 2005, Route 123 is now a very well maintained country road. Each of the towns passed this way and those ahead have wonderful colonial charm, too, with central meeting houses that long ago rang with the declamations of our forefathers and quiet village greens.

In Stoddard the climb to Pitcher Mountain, which rises to 2,153 feet, begins. Pitcher Mountain Farm, where American Highland Cattle graze, sits on the east shoulder. On the next rise, the view to the left arrays Warren Lake below, with vistas stretching on into Vermont and Massachusetts. On the descent, riders should be particularly attentive on the hairpin turn at Mill Hollow, and once past that point the drop continues in a series of twisties along the Cold River into Alstead.

The roads till now have been occupied by locals, and traffic is minimal. This changes when reaching Walpole and connecting with busy Route 12. But this bothersome rush is short-lived, only 10 miles, heading south before connecting with Route 63 to Westmoreland. The change is immediate, and once more pastoral calm prevails. Barns and livestock, the land. If it's time for breakfast, Stuart & John's Sugar House is there to set things right with a stack of pancakes, and purchasing a pint of pure New Hampshire maple syrup is bound to refresh that warm memory at home.

A nice little stretch of twisties brings one's senses to full alertness again, and then the rest of this route proceeds pleasantly to Spofford Lake. Here, the ride crosses Route 9 and continues on Route 63 to Hinsdale and Route 119.

If the Sugar House was passed by, take a right and pull into the park near the Ashuelot River. Order a sub to go at Castle Pizza. Sit on the park benches, enjoy the cooling breezes off the river, do a little people-watching and enjoy lunch. But don't fill up or you will spoil your appetite for the treat up ahead via Route 119.

Route 119 is enjoyable, gently sweeping along the river in a soothing, rhythmic way. The second of the covered bridges is just ahead, too. Continuing on Route 119 until Route 202, and bearing left at the light, takes you north to Jaffrey, which is almost as busy as Route 12. Riders will be rewarded for their patience, however, when there and rolling down Route 124 for a stop at Kimball's. A very popular place, Kimball's is renowned for great food and generous portions of delicious ice cream. And during riding season more motorcycles than cars can often be spotted in their lot.

Two choices next, depending on time. Either backtrack to Route 202 and continue north to Peterborough. Connect with Route 101 East and hightail it to the start point. Or, if time permits, continue on Route 124 East, then take Route 123 to connect with Route 31 in Greenville, heading back toward Wilton. Route 31 is a pleasant wooded ride along the Souhegan River. At the stop sign, take a right on Route 101 for a short ride to the Irving Station to complete the loop. All in all, the trip consumes 130 miles. And though the name may be coincidental, once you've ridden this loop I can practically guarantee that you'll be grinning ear to ear like the Cheshire Cat.

Ratings

Scenery - 3 out of 5
While not the Grand Canyon, or the view from Rainbow Bridge at Niagara, the scenery is typical New England. There are vistas, farmland, lakes, streams and ponds spread all along canopied tree-lined roadways; all very pleasing to the eye during any season.

Historical - 2 out of 5
There are no major battlefields of the Revolutionary variety found in neighboring Massachusetts or Vermont. The President didn't sleep in any home along the way that I know of, but Paul Revere's bell does hang in the Hancock meeting house, and Bob Hope did sleep in Greenfield.

Traffic - 4 out of 5
The roads are typically quiet with only local traffic, except for Route 12 and Route 202. A rider can pretty much enjoy the ride unencumbered by heavy traffic.

Curves - 3 out of 5
The curves in Alstead and along route 63 are a delight. The long sweeps that stretch the length of Route 119, while not exactly twisty, need your attention and are a pleasant experience. Once you reach Route 31 from Greenville to Wilton, you get one last chance at some decent sweeps along the river.

Road Conditions - 4 out of 5
The roads along a good portion of this route have been reconstructed in recent years due to major flood damage. They are smooth and unblemished. The only section I have reservations about is the short section of Route 123 after you leave Kimball's and before you get to Greenville.