Issue:
May/June 2009

Text:
Ken Freund

Photography:
Ken Freund

Geographic Region:
India, Nepal, Bhutan, Asia

Pages:
56 - 64

Tankbag Maps:
Download Map 1

Visit the gallery for more pictures

 

Himalayan Roadrunners, Ltd. is the sponsor for this article. The complete article and all maps are now available. — www.ridehigh.com

It is with this spirit that I venture forth to explore the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan – known as Druk Yul, Land of the Thunder Dragon – and some of the far reaches in Nepal and northern India, on a vintage-styled Royal Enfield Bullet 500cc motorcycle. Our group meets at the hilltop Summit Hotel in storied Kathmandu, Nepal. It's an eclectic bunch composed of Germans, who live in France and Vietnam, a British expatriate, who lives in Abu Dhabi, a Spanish airline pilot, a California couple and yours truly.

After introductions, a hearty dinner and trip briefing, we're off to bed. However, one of the cruel ironies of jet lag is that you can be exhausted yet unable to sleep. Following a long first night, we set out early for the trip of a lifetime. Starting this journey of great expectations, we share a palpable sense of excitement and apprehension about the unknown adventures that lie ahead.

Kathmandu - Lahan, 180 Miles

Severe monsoonal storms have washed out the roads along our intended route, taking out a portion of the main highway for about 15 kilometers. Changing plans, we depart for Lahan instead of Hetauda and encounter some rough dirt roads as soon as we leave Kathmandu.

Due to high fuel prices, vendors "cut" the gasoline with paint thinner and kerosene, and the Enfields are belching smoke and running poorly. My bike is hard to start and keeps stalling, then fouls a spark plug, the first of several. Will it be like this the entire trip?

The hustle and bustle of Kathmandu soon gives way to the unhurried pace of rural villages and farms. After lunch we head south toward the India border before turning eastward to Lahan, where sand, gravel, ruts and several stream crossings challenge our riding skills. There have been a few problems and a minor spill, so everyone is concerned about what's coming; but our spirits remain high as we reach the austere Goduti Hotel, which isn't on the normal itinerary.

Lahan - Dharan via Kosi River Crossing, 66 Miles

Recent storms have shifted the wide Kosi River's course, so we have to detour again, onto rough, deeply rutted dirt roads for about 25 miles around the flooding in East Nepal and then load the bikes onto a small boat for the crossing, since there is no longer a bridge. Two crossings are required due to the boat's size.

Several local men strain against the ropes pulling the leaky, old wooden craft upriver. A crewmember diligently bails the water lest we sink, and upon reaching a wide sandbar, the boat is quickly poled and rowed, fighting the swift currents of the river, to a makeshift landing on the opposite bank.

A drunken goat herder, who smells worse than his terrified goats, sits in front of me, struggling to keep them from jumping overboard. Muttering loudly to me through rotten teeth in indecipherable Nepalese for the entire one-hour ride, he seems unperturbed by the fact that I can't understand a word he's saying.

Everyone pitches in, unloading goats and lifting the bikes onto a plank. A spare engine and piles of luggage are disgorged and hauled up the steep riverbank to an awaiting chase truck. The boat returns with the remainder of our group an hour later to repeat the process, but without goats this time.

As darkness envelopes us, the convoy sets out and we work our way along the river, through the large village of Chatara, and across a wide river wash where several riders go missing for a while by making a wrong turn. Finally, tired and dirty after taking all day to travel only about 60 miles, we reach the Ghurka Army town of Dharan and take respite in the aptly named Hotel Dreamland.

Dharan - Darjeeling, 142 Miles

Today it's back onto the East-West Highway for some paved road to the bustling Nepal-India border crossing at Kakarbhitta. Officials laboriously record endless passport and visa details on the pages of timeworn books as a line of tourists spill outside the building and down the path. After two hours of bureaucratic delay, we lunch on the West Bengal side, 9 miles past the border.

In the afternoon, we climb into the foothills of the Himalayas, passing through countless tea plantations and snaking our way up to the small lakeside village of Mirik, near the Nepal border. From here we continue north, the rain falling harder and colder as we climb ever higher, following the frontier ridge and the tracks of the diminutive "Toy Train" all the way to the famous hillside city of Darjeeling (the Place of Thunderbolts).

The Darjeeling area, still famous for fine tea, has plantations dating back to the mid 1800s. It's also known for the two-foot narrow-gauge Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, nicknamed the "Toy Train," that was built between 1879 and 1881. The DHR climbs steeply from the plains city of Siliguri to Darjeeling over about 53 miles and has one of the few steam engines still in service in India. It was declared a U.N. World Heritage Site in 1999.

During British rule, Darjeeling's 7,000-foot elevation made it ideal for use as a hill station for those fleeing the summer heat of the plains, but today we arrive long after dark, soaked and chilled to the bone. An intense storm has slowed our progress, and after countless turns and 77 railroad crossings negotiated, it's surprising everyone made it unscathed.

Darjeeling-Kalimpong, 34 Miles

The rain ends overnight, and after dawn we get the first breathtaking glimpses of snow-capped Kanchenjunga, the world's third highest mountain (28,169 ft.). The morning has been set aside for sightseeing and shopping in historic Darjeeling, and some of the riders visit the Mountaineering Institute, which commemorates this city's most famous resident, Tenzing Norgay Sherpa. In 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay became the first men to summit Mount Everest. A few of us hike down to the Tibetan Refugee Camp to shop, and my trip there results in a bag filled to bursting with local teas bought at bargain prices.

After lunch we pack up and head over the hills to Kalimpong, which once belonged to the Rajas of Sikkim. The ridgeline road displays commanding views far into Bhutan, and our steep descent to the Tista River takes us to the Kalimpong Road and a series of amazing switchbacks leading to our accommodations at the historic Park Hotel. This inn was once known as Dinajpur House, the former summer home of the Maharaja of Dinajpur. We have reached Kalimpong on the eve of the Hindu observance of Diwali, the Festival of Lights, an ancient celebration of Lord Ram's victory over Ravana. And the revelry goes on late into the night with firecrackers popping and crowds throwing themselves into the celebration with loud abandon.

Kalimpong - Jaigon, India/Bhutan Border, 118 Miles

A little sleep-deprived, we set out early again, riding the back roads of West Bengal to reach our meeting place with the Bhutanese crew at the crossroads near Damdim. As we reach the crowded, gritty, fly-infested town of Heaven, we dine on packed lunches. Then we mount up for the long, rough ride to the bustling Indian border city of Jaigon. When we arrive, the Diwali parties are still underway, the streets crawling with people at all hours. Attempting to capture the action, I discover my video camera is useless, a victim of the rough roads' thrashings. We walk to the outdoor market and marvel at the wares, everything from pig heads and cow eyes to dried fish, before retiring.
Bhutan Border - Paro, 102 Miles
On our approach to the Bhutan border-crossing station, trucks are lined up along the roadside for a mile or more. The pass is closed due to landslides, and we have to wait for heavy equipment and workers with hand tools to clear the way. Finally, we're allowed to squeeze through a small gap they've carved, although the road is still dreadfully torn up, narrow and potholed.

As we climb higher, the air turns fresher and cooler, the views grow longer, and the scenery more beautiful. Waterfalls cascade beside the road seemingly at every turn, and festive signs and posters are arrayed everywhere. The Bhutanese are celebrating the new king's coronation.

After a side trip to the vast Punakha Dzong, the site of the coronation, we ride on to lovely Paro, nestled in a rich valley flanked by snowcapped peaks. Bhutan is beautiful, and our lodgings are the finest of our trip, in the cozy Gangtey Palace Hotel.

Paro - Thimphu, 34 Miles

Our morning starts with a ride to the head of the Paro Valley to view the Taktshang Monastery (known as the Tiger's Nest), which clings to the edge of an incredibly high cliff (10,000 ft.). Built in the seventh century and once burned to the ground, it has been faithfully restored. From there, we ride over to Drukgyel Dzong, a Buddhist monastery, and walk through the ancient ruins of the seventeenth-century hilltop fortress that kept Tibetan invaders out. Before leaving town, we take in the National Museum above Paro Dzong, which is chock-full of artifacts showcasing the long history of the region, which dates back to 2,000 B.C.

Bhutan's capital of Thimphu is not far and we arrive there at the comfortable Pedling Hotel in late afternoon. After locating a shop to work on my camera, I get some laundry done. Until recently, this small city had the only traffic light in the whole country, but due to citizen complaints, it's been removed. A policeman whirls about directing traffic.

Thimphu-Wandgi Phodrang, 58 Miles

Morning sightseeing in Thimphu includes the government center Taschichho Dzong, the National Library, King's Memorial Chorten (a lovely Buddhist monument), and some power shopping. We load up and ride along river gorges to the Dochula Pass (10,334 ft). The Bhutanese are deeply religious people, and at the summit of each high pass you'll find a Buddhist shrine resplendent with prayer flags and prayer wheels. Resting from our climb, we watch as local travelers stop to pray for a safe journey. From there, we descend into the lush Punakha Valley, a picture-perfect setting at the confluence of two rivers.

Wangdi Phodrang – Bumthang, 117 Miles

We start early on our long trek over the Black Mountains, which cleave Western and Central Bhutan, including Pele La Pass (a chilly 11,155 feet). A hot lunch warms us at Chendebji Stupa (Buddhist monument) before our first distant glimpse of Trongsa Dzong. Built in 1644, it is one of the most memorable of the vast structures used as both a monastery and government center in this mountain kingdom. Situated high above the gorges of the Mangde Chhu, the Dzong was the seat of power of the Wangchuck dynasty and controlled east-west trade for centuries. Snaking over several passes, we see two incredible 400-foot-plus waterfalls of snowmelt cascading down sheer cliff faces before we reach our guesthouse in Bumthang Valley in late afternoon.

Bumthang - Mongar, 120 Miles

Another long day's ride over Shertong La and Thromseng La (12,303 feet) passes; this is certainly one of the most beautiful roads in Bhutan. High above the cloud-filled valleys, we see yaks grazing and patches of snow left from the previous winter. Negotiating countless switchbacks in near-freezing temperatures, we start down from 10,500 feet and then climb again to the mountain village of Mongar for an overnight in a cozy lodge.

Mongar - Tashigang, 56 Miles

The mile-high mountain village of Mongar in eastern Bhutan is accessed via one of the highest motorable roads in the country. Mongar's main attraction is the Mongar Dzong, a fortress rebuilt in 1930 after the original building was destroyed by fire. Its ornate design is similar to Lamai Geonpa in Bumthang, the official residence of the first King Gongsa Ugyen Wangchuck.

We descend the Yadi Loops into southeastern Bhutan, stopping at the Chazam (Iron) Bridge, a 240-foot-long suspension bridge. You can still see the remains of the former chain-link bridge that they say a Tibetan bridge builder fashioned in the 15th century. Continuing along the Drangme Chhu, we stop at Gom Kora, a sacred meditation site of Gur Rimpochel, and then to Tashi Yangtse for lunch. The chorten here, representative of the Nepali stupa style, replicates Boudhanath in Kathmandu. Our stay tonight in Tashigang will be our last night in charming Bhutan.

Tashigang - Samdrup Jongkhar, 109 Miles

Arising early, we begin our last descent to the Indian border over a serpentine road contouring the lower ridges of the far-eastern Bhutanese Himalaya. We pass Bhutan's only university at Kaglung, and the Handloom Weaving Project at Khaling. Established about 20 years ago, the National Handloom Development Project has been providing training to rural Bhutanese women to ensure the continuation of the country's weaving traditions. Soon, the road will be excellent, thanks to all the roadwork underway, but today we have to wait for freshly blasted rocks to be cleared before we can pass. As darkness falls, we cross the border at Samdrup Jongkar, then ride into town. Here we park our Royal Enfields for the last time and then bid each other farewell over several well-deserved rounds of cold beer. In the morning, we proceed by van to Gauhati airport for our long flights home.

Final Thoughts

Over 12 days, our total tour distance was 1,830 kilometers, or about 1,137 miles. This may not sound like much, but potholes the size of wheelbarrows, sand, mud, axle-deep water, switchbacks, not to mention driving on the "wrong" side of the road and dodging sacred cows, elephants, camels, yaks, donkeys, horses, goats, sheep, dogs, children, fallen rocks, overloaded trucks and buses and every other road-going conveyance known to mankind can make it seem, um, a little longer than a ride down the Interstate.

Despite a few hardships, this was an excellent adventure and everyone made it through intact with memories that will last a lifetime. Bhutan is the Switzerland of Asia, an unspoiled land of happy people. It manages to retain much of its old-world charm, native dress and Buddhist traditions while also embracing education and many modern ways. India is a more crowded, grittier, poorer place, where a group of foreigners on Royal Enfields will draw a huge assembly of curious onlookers. Nepal's lowlands are similar to India, with friendly people of generally modest means, but less crowding.

Rob Callender and his professional staff did a fine job getting everyone through safely, keeping the recalcitrant Enfields running, and transporting huge piles of luggage across three countries. They carefully watched over everything, solved problems as they came up and were helpful and cooperative at all times. What more can you ask?

Himalayan Roadrunners

Rob Callander has lived in Kathmandu, Nepal for many years, after longtime residency in Vermont. His love of adventure, mountains and riding led him to guiding treks and motorcycle expeditions throughout the Himalayas. This included the first ascent by a motorcycle group of Khardung La in Ladakh, India, the world's highest road and motorable pass (18,380 ft).

Himalayan Roadrunners (no connection to RoadRUNNER magazine) was established in Kathmandu in 1989 and continues to be the only registered motorcycle touring company in Nepal. Specializing in custom-guided tours and expeditions throughout the Himalayas, the company offers an annual summer ascent of Khardung La Pass, springtime high-altitude motorcycle adventures from Nepal to Everest Base Camp, and to Lhasa, Tibet, and annual fall trips to the mountains of Far East India and into spectacular Bhutan. All tours are owner-operated and utilize a leader-sweep system with a full backup team of mechanics and a support vehicle for luggage, tools and spare parts.
Contact Himalayan Roadrunners Ltd., P.O. Box 3, Vershire, Vermont 05079; (802) 738-6500

FACTS AND INFORMATION

Total Mileage
Approximately 1,137 miles.

In General
English is the second language of these countries, the most widely taught foreign language in the schools, and many younger people in particular can speak it fairly well. In addition, our guides are fluent in English and the local languages in all three countries.
Prices for most local goods and services are modest. All three countries recognize and accept Indian rupees (which were trading at 46 to the U.S. dollar); so, this is the best currency to obtain, although large denomination bills (500 rupee & larger) are no longer accepted in Bhutan.

Food & Lodging
Food is quite different in this region, and service is sometimes agonizingly slow and inept. Internet access is inexpensive, but not available in all the towns – so you won't be able to check emails every day. Accommodations vary from semi-plush to sparse, with small beds, thin mattresses and no hot water available in some locations. Western standards don't apply here, so flexibility and a good adventuresome attitude are required.

Roads & Biking
Riding conditions range from smooth straight highways to sand, gravel and mud, with stream crossings, steep grades and switchbacks. Driving is on the left, and that plus narrow, one-lane roads, with two-way traffic and "crazy" drivers, and long days in the saddle require riding skill and stamina. This is no place for a beginner to learn to ride, and riders with many years of experience will be challenged too.

We rode in a dry season, with only one day of heavy rain. Temperatures vary greatly, from hot 90s in the lowlands to 32 and below overnight in the mountains.

The Enfield's low 6.5 to 1 compression ratio allows it to run well on the low-octane gas here. But its kick-starting drill, four-speed transmission with right-foot shifter, reverse shift pattern (1 up, 3 down) and impossible-to-find neutral, sketchy drum brakes and ribbed front tire all take some getting accustomed to and require constant vigilance and concentration.

Books & Maps
oLet's Go India & Nepal 8th Ed , by Let's Go Inc., Let's Go Publications, ISBN 978-0312320065, $22.99

oBhutan: Land of the Thunder Dragon, by John Berthold, Wisdom Publications, ISBN 978-0861712823, $29.95

oNelles Himalaya Map, Tibet Kashmir Nepal Sikim Bhutan, ISBN 978-3865740328, $10.95

Addresses
oHimalayan Roadrunners
www.ridehigh.com
oNepal Tourism & Civil Aviation
www.welcomenepal.com
oTourism Council of Bhutan
www.tourism.gov.bt
oVisit India, www.incredibleindia.org

Motorcycle & Gear
1999 Royal Enfield 500cc Bullet
Helmet: Arai Quantum f
Jacket: Cortech Flex
Pants: Marsee Mesh
Boots: Oxtar Adventure Touring
Gloves: Aerostich 3-Season Vegan