Five Country Tour 2008 – Dream Vacation
The Road Runner Five-County Tour 2008 was to be our dream vacation. We began dreaming shortly after selling a cabin in the Ozarks and setting aside funds for that one great trip. After much research and debate we began to narrow our choices. I have to admit I wasn’t entirely sold on the idea of riding the Alps. Cruise brochures beckoned, but my husband salivated every time he looked at the pictures of roads along the Alps.
Steve and I took several stateside vacations on our 2005 Triumph Tiger that included rides through Texas, Arkansas, Missouri and Oklahoma. We also did one memorable five-day ride in the Scotland highlands on a BMW. For me, the choice came down to simple math. At 65, there were just so many years left when I would be able to climb on the back of a motorcycle and spend nine days riding on tough roads. Steve, who is a mere 49, could take the trip without me but we wanted a dream vacation for two, so I decided to save the cruise for my old age.
We vacillated between The Five-County Road Runner Tour and several others, which offered chase vans, but the extra cost for the chase van just didn’t seem worth it.
Settling on the tour was just the beginning. Differences immediately surfaced over which motorcycle. Steve wanted something sporty. I wanted something comfortable. I should mention my husband raced motorcycles from the age of eighteen. He competed in the Baja 1000 three times, became the number three pro in cross county racing in Texas and filled our home with trophies from motocross. We chose the R1200RT.
At times the magnitude of all the things to be taken care of seemed overwhelming, but one by one things began to fall into place. We decided to fly into Munich a day early, and stay in Munich for a couple of days after the tour. With those decisions made, we found a flight, booked early, and bought trip insurance.
Gear became the next pondering point. Since we live in Texas our wardrobe contains plenty of warm weather gear. The ride in Scotland had been at the end of the season, and we prepared for cold, wet weather. The cold weather gear we purchased proved to be perfect. Road Runner advised us to prepared for both warm and cold weather, so we ended up buying some additional in-between gear. I purchased a florescent green Olympia jacket and some Gortex gloves. Steve bought a florescent red Olympia jacket. Together we looked like a mix between a Christmas tree and nuclear fruit going down the road.
We managed to pack everything needed for five days spent on the motorcycle in Scotland, but the Alps trip would be twice as long. So, I did a little research and came up with a plan. I started with space bags purchased at Wal-Mart. I stuffed one with a couple pair of jeans, some T-shirts, a long sleeved shirt, and a few things I could use to layer if the weather turned cold. I packed another space bag with disposable underwear and socks (actually my old stuff) and some inexpensive sports bras. These were discarded along the way so I didn’t have to deal with dirty laundry. We did have the opportunity to get things laundered a couple of times on the trip, but I liked tossing as we went. I even packed used t-shirts that would be replaced with new ones. Travel size toiletries and make up were secured in a plastic bag. I threw in a pair of comfortable tennis shoes and fit all of it into one of our Triumph side bags, as a test run. Steve did the same, and we planned to use the top bag for things like Cameras, cleaning supplies, liners that weren’t in use, and a few other community items.
With preparations behind us, we began the long wait until flight day. After a blissfully uneventful flight, we landed in Munich on August 26th to beautiful weather. Since our hotel room wasn’t ready, and I had failed to specify an early arrival, we stored our luggage at the airport and took the S-Baun into Munich for a little sightseeing. We were so exhausted when we finally checked into the hotel, that we skipped dinner and went to bed.
All during breakfast we watched for people we thought might be in the riding group, since we knew several were staying at the same hotel. We met Ron who had rode the Alps twice before with a different group.
Pick up for the trip to Bad Tolz Germany, where we would rent our motorcycles, would be around 11:30 that morning. While waiting for the bus, we began to meet more of our group.
What a fantastic bunch it turned out to be. For the next nine days we would be a company of twelve, nine men and three women. To my delight the other two women were passengers as well. Peter Lintschinger and Robert Smith would be our tour guides. Peter’s real job is a police officer, but he had guided this tour for several years. He claimed his English wasn’t good, but we had little trouble understanding him. Robert, who served as the official photographer, his wife Cheryl and three of their friends were all from British Columbia. The other couple, newlyweds from Kentucky, had made an unusually brave choice for their honeymoon. Interestingly Greg, the honeymooner, is also a police officer, as is my husband. With three police officers in the group we were sure to be well protected. Ron was from Florida and the other gentleman from Arizona.
High spirits prevailed as we got acquainted on the bus trip to Bad Tolz. The hotel proved to be exceptionally charming. Bright pink flowers cascaded from the railings surrounding the exterior. A fresco of a horse drawn wagon graced the entryway. Peter told us to put on our riding gear and we were soon whisked away to the BMW dealership to rent our motorcycles. Our R1200RT was silver and had an electric seat warmer, which I considered an extra treat.
Robert and Cheryl also chose the R1200RT. Nine motorcycles would make the trip. Peter had his own Bandit 1250. In addition to the two R1200RT’s, the group rode three R1200GS, one F800S, one F800ST, and one R1200R.
The weather was near perfect, and Peter wanted to take us on a little jaunt. This proved to be a great way to assess everyone’s riding abilities and to let people get comfortable with their motorcycle and riding in the group. The brochures said the tour was for the skilled rider and from the beginning, it was clear that the entire group was comprised of just that.
We rode for about an hour and began to get our first taste of the great roads and beautiful countryside. We arrived at a lovely little inn in Austria. It was completely surrounded by mountains, and the only way to this part of Austria was through Germany. Here we saw a shimmering silver green lake. I learned that the color came from minerals that washed down form the mountains. Back in Bad Tolz we had time to pack our motorcycle bags and store our luggage before a fabulous barbeque dinner and more camaraderie. Then it was off to bed early for the beginning of our true dream trip – the ride through the Alps.
We left Bad Tolz around 9:00 A.M. on August 27, a Thursday morning, for the 169-mile trip to Tamsweg Austria, Peter’s hometown. The day was warm and beautiful. We rode along the German Alpenstrasse. We stopped in Salzburg for a one-hour tour. The city reeked of Sound Of Music charm. I would have loved fifteen minutes in the square for a bit of shopping, but there were schedules to keep. After all, it is a riding tour not a shopping tour, so we were soon back on the motorcycles for yet another pass with more delights.
The day ended in Tamsweg where we would spend the next two nights. The lovely room had a magnificent view of the surrounding countryside, which included a charming church that literally glowed at night. Again, the food was excellent. I have an allergy to cream, but with Peter’s help interrupting the menu, and an exceptionally accommodating host, I got to share in the wonderful cuisine.
The ride on Friday only covered 82 miles. Eighty-two miles on the European roads would equate to about twice the distance on our Texas roads. A sunny cool day greeted us, so we started with liners in our gear, but soon shed them. Peter took us to an area, which allowed everyone to ride on his own. Delighted, Steve had to test both his skills and the bike on the winding, twisty roads. For me, it was hang on and enjoy the ride. I wouldn’t have seen much but a blur if Steve hadn’t slowed for traffic. I’m happy to say both the motorcycle and my husband preformed well, and the scenery was postcard material.
Later in the day we stopped for a tour of the beautiful old church where Peter had married. Peter’s sister acted as an interrupter since the caretaker for the Church did not speak English. Then it was back to the hotel for more good food and fun. Peter’s wife joined us for dinner and we enjoyed her company even though she did not speak English.
Saturday brought yet another beautiful day, and except for some rain on the next to last day, we would have fantastic weather the entire trip. Today’s agenda called for steep roads, and 56 switchbacks up and down along the Vrisicpass. The old road even had cobblestones on most of the corners, not to mention a few unimpressed cows. The switchbacks reminded me of a few roads in Arkansas, but Steve said they were a tad more challenging. Of course, the challenge for me was to hang on. The compliment my husband most often gives me as a rider is, he doesn’t know I’m there. It is hard to live up to the compliment when you are constantly being bounced back and forth, something my husband refers to as late braking. In all we rode in three countries that day. Starting and ending in Austria, we drove through Slovenia only stopping long enough to take pictures of the mountains, and of the road signs for Solvenia and Italy. Lunch was in a quite little Italian village with friendly people and lots to see.
The evening brought us to yet another quaint hotel. An authentic Austrian wedding was in progress, and we got to witness some of the festivities. The mother of the bride even shared homemade bread with us. Fire works from the wedding woke me from a sound sleep around 11:00 that evening.
The next day it was off for more riding. Cheryl and I decided to switch chauffeurs. A simple plan called for us to follow Peter up a mountain pass and when he stopped, take the road he indicated on our own to Plateu de Giau, one of the greatest points in the Dolomites.
Robert and I, at the back of the pack, somehow missed the turn off. We did see one of the riders turn in at a restaurant, but did not see anyone else around. Robert thought he saw the other rider take the road to the left, so that is the way we went. We arrived at the top, and did not see a single rider from our group. After a few failed attempts to call Peter and a quick look at the map, we decided to retrace our steps. Sure enough we found a road at the bottom of the pass going to the right. Robert again consulted the map and we soon figured out that we needed to follow that road. We arrived at the top just in time to see our group pulling out. Everyone thought that Robert was just off taking pictures. I only got a glimpse of the beautiful view as we rejoined the group. My husband says that until something goes wrong, you’ve only had a vacation, but if something is amiss, you’ve had an adventure. So, I had an adventure, and got to see a pass that none of the other group got to experience.
Cheryl said her ride had been thrilling. Thrilling is a good word. Riding with Steve often requires engaging stomach muscles, quads, triceps and biceps, but it is well worth the effort. There is nothing quite like being on the back of a motorcycle, flowing with the movements of the rider and the bike while breathing fresh mountain air, and enjoying all the sights, sounds and smells of the world around you. My favorite is the long sweepers where you can truly enjoy the flow, while mile after mile of breathtaking beauty flies by.
The next day brought us into Meran Italy where we would spend another two nights. An amazing ride in revealed mile after mile of grape vineyards and apple orchards. The landscape screamed Italy. That evening, Jim, one of the British riders bought some fresh apples and grapes at a roadside stand. The group gathered on one of the patio’s to devour the delicious fruit along with some bottled processed grapes and cheese.
From Meran we rode to Serfaus, Austria. On one of the passes, we ran into a gentleman on an old Moto Guzzi V35. We had pulled over to enjoy the view when this gentleman strangely stopped on a very dangerous curve. Someone realized that he needed help and the group quickly pushed his bike out of harms way. Peter proceeded to help him repair his motorcycle, which had a broken clutch cable. Naturally, he carried a supply of them under his seat. In his haste to help, Peter placed his helmet on the seat of his motorcycle. A sign warned of high wind gust in the area. Sure enough a high gust caught Peter’s expensive Arai helmet and sent it flying down the hill. We watched in horror as the helmet bounced from one rock to another with Peter scrambling after it. None of us had a problem understanding Peter’s German as he sat examining his helmet. Regrettably it was badly damaged, and Peter had to use quite a bit of duck tape to keep it together.
While Peter made his way back up the hill, the group conspired to replace the helmet. We collected the money and presented it to Peter at dinner that night. Cheryl did the presentation and led us in a round table discussion on what we liked best about the trip.
One of the group mentioned having some misgivings when he realized there would be three women passengers in the group, but thought we preformed wonderfully, and were just one of the guys.
The final full day, we road into Switzerland and stopped in St Mortiz for some shopping.
Unfortunately, we arrived at noon when most of the stores were closed. We managed to leave with some Swiss chocolate. A light rain fell as we finally made our way out of the city. As we proceeded toward the Ofenpass the weather began to close in, and Peter decided that we needed to use a safer route back to Serfaus, our stop for the night.
Our final day found us following roads along Bavarian lakesides with more beautiful scenery, great roads and good food. We arrived in Bad Tolz all too soon. Here we would return the motorcycles and say goodbye to Peter who left for home. We enjoyed our final meal together that evening minus Peter, exchanged e-mail addresses, and promised to post pictures for all to share.
The next morning seven of us, along with all our luggage, crammed into a van for the ride to Munich. The rest planned to extend their trip with a tour of motorcycle manufacturers in Italy. All but one of the group came out for a final early morning goodbye. We rode to the airport with the group and said more goodbyes to the people catching planes. The van took us to our hotel in Munich, where we spent the next couple of days being tourists, and reflecting on the ride.
What can I say? We saw some of the most beautiful country in the world. The bikes ran flawlessly. We were blessed with awesome weather. The roads are world renown for riding, and deserve the reputation. The food was excellent. The hotels were nice and the company exceptional. Steve and I hoped to have our dream vacation, and we did.
Text: Kathleen Mack
